It is often said that 93% of communication is non-verbal, as such in any given encounter there is an unspoken flex and nod to the vestiges of tailoring which directly establishes authority and influence in any room. 10 Flexes that indicate its business time:
1. Functional buttonhole cuff
Generally when purchasing a suit off the rack the buttons on the cuff are stitched in. Undoing 1 or 2 buttons on your cuff is a subtle flex nodding to the prestige of your tailor made garment.
2. Monogram/Custom Lining
A tale once told…a customary gesture in certain parts of Oriental Asia within a room of corporate elites is to flick open the other persons jacket when meeting each other, this act unveils if they have a monogram or a high end/custom label. This is a sign of respect.
3. Custom trouser pocket adaptable to leg shape
Calling all Crossfit enthusiasts, Soccer and Rugby players the flaring of the trouser pocket is a common issue on all your trousers. This is because of your hip and thigh shape- to alleviate the puckering one must opt for a custom pocket- usually in the form of a besom or on seam.
4. Two inch cuff on trousers
Cuffs on a trouser already hold a stigma of being ‘old school’ and reserved for your grandad. However, if the garment is well tailored to your body and especially coupled with a double breasted jacket or curved wide peak lapel- we say the cuff is necessary. Even more so a 2 inch cuff is a nod to the suit elites. Its a game of inches…
5. Pattern consistency throughout the body of the jacket
Despite the inclusion of a slanted or patch pocket or even a ticket pocket a properly tailored garment maintains the consistency of the pinstripe, check, prince of wales or any pattern throughout the whole garment.
6. Contrast buttonhole stitching
Whether it’s a color contrast on the buttonhole of your lapel or the last buttonhole on your cuff, this is an obvious show of a custom made suit. The only disadvantage to applying this accent is matching your color choice with your tie.
7. Outer Pick Stitching on Jacket
This detail is a subtle stitch that follows the body of the jacket from the lapel to the pockets. This is traditionally a sign that the garment is hand made.
8. Milanese lapel button hole
This detail is often overlooked however the skillful art in the accuracy of stitching on a small dimension of your jacket speaks volumes for those who appreciate the touch of elegance. The milanese buttonhole is an elevated hand stitch specially crafted with a smooth finish.
9. Dimple in your tie
Very rarely do we see NYC men sporting a tie, however when you do be sure to add that signature dimple. This gives your tie a little more character than a plain mediocre shape which could be mistaken for a clip on.
10. No back pockets on trousers
This is somewhat contentious however we are an advocate for having no pockets. Firstly, as per our previous post – it’s a sin to place your wallet or phone in the back pocket. Not only will it affect the shape of your garment – it also misaligns your spinal cord when you sit down. Finally, it’s a cleaner look.
