Shoes

Our men's dress shoes are made to order in your size, in calfskin, suede and patent leather chosen to sit beneath a suit. Like the suits, they are made to be kept.

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The collection

What a welt allows

The black wholecut in painted calf is made in Spain, its upper cut without a seam and joined to a dark red leather sole by a Goodyear welt. When the sole wears through, a cobbler unpicks it from the welt and stitches on another. Years later he can do it again, while the upper carries on.

The French calfskin pairs are cut from full-grain leather that gives under the thumb, and their soles are Blake-stitched close to the upper. That keeps the edge trim and the shoe slim beneath a trouser hem. A loafer takes some of the formality out of a suit and leaves the polish. In light suede it is a February afternoon shoe, and the black deerskin pair, grained like the skin of a lychee, is for the evening after.

When the heat sets in, the fisherman shoe comes out, in Italian baby lamb suede with a faint sheen, on a sole woven by hand to let the air through. After dark, black tie calls for patent, with a shine you could straighten your bow tie in.