Tuxedo

A dinner suit is made to be seen by lamplight. Its black should look deep and even from across a room, with the shine left to the lapel facings.
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The collection

The tuxedo, black and otherwise

Our barathea is wool and mohair. At the distance of a handshake it looks matte and evenly black, without a glint. For an Australian summer the same two fibres are spun finer and woven open into a tropical cloth. Air moves through it at a January wedding, and at midnight it still looks correct.

White in the bush

One groom wore a white dinner jacket to his summer wedding in the bush, after his stylist saw photographs of the venue and suggested it. Against the dry browns and greens it looked intended. A dark suit would have vanished into the background of every wide shot. The Casablanca is cut on the same idea, in white Marzotto cloth, double-breasted on four buttons with a shawl lapel.

Velvet, in midnight navy or deep emerald, catches the light that barathea turns away. It belongs to the nights when black would feel dutiful. The most formal evenings call for the tailcoat, in black wool with peak lapels faced in silk. These are cloths to judge side by side, in the hand, at a fitting.