What a welt allows
The black wholecut in painted calf is made in Spain, its upper cut without a seam and joined to a dark red leather sole by a Goodyear welt. When the sole wears through, a cobbler unpicks it from the welt and stitches on another. Years later he can do it again, while the upper carries on.
The French calfskin pairs are cut from full-grain leather that gives under the thumb, and their soles are Blake-stitched close to the upper. That keeps the edge trim and the shoe slim beneath a trouser hem. A loafer takes some of the formality out of a suit and leaves the polish. In light suede it is a February afternoon shoe, and the black deerskin pair, grained like the skin of a lychee, is for the evening after.
When the heat sets in, the fisherman shoe comes out, in Italian baby lamb suede with a faint sheen, on a sole woven by hand to let the air through. After dark, black tie calls for patent, with a shine you could straighten your bow tie in.