Marzoni

Coatings and cold-weather cloth

Marzoni enters our range where the temperature drops: coatings and cold-weather cloth. Coating is its own discipline. The cloth needs enough body to swing correctly and enough softness to sit close at the collar, and very few weaves manage both.

An overcoat asks more of its fabric than a suit does. The weights are heavier and the panels are longer, so there is nowhere to hide a cloth that goes limp or boardy. What we want from a coating is simple to say and hard to weave: a full hand and a clean drape, with a surface that sheds a winter of wear without pilling.

The Brown Street Revival Sweeping Coat is cut from Marzoni cloth. It is a long coat, and long coats live at the hem: the fabric has to move when you walk and settle when you stop. Marzoni's cloth does exactly that, which is why it earned the commission.

Marzoni sits in the rotating part of our cloth library rather than the permanent shelf. Lengths arrive ahead of the cooler months and are replaced once they are cut, so the book changes year to year. If you are planning an overcoat, ask what Marzoni cloth is in the current bunch at your fitting.