The unstructured suit

Soft tailoring, from the EDM

An unstructured suit is built with as little internal structure as the garment can carry. The shoulder line is soft rather than sharp, and the whole thing is cut looser. The result reads more relaxed and more casual than a conventional suit, and it moves in a way a structured jacket cannot.

That is the whole idea, but it is worth being honest about the trade.

What the structure was doing

A conventional jacket has padding in the shoulder and a canvas through the chest. Those exist to impose a shape: square shoulders, a clean chest, a line that holds whether or not the person inside it does. Take them out and the jacket stops imposing anything. It follows you instead.

If you want a suit to make you look more imposing than you are, structure is how that happens, and an unstructured jacket will not do it. If you want to stop noticing that you are wearing a jacket, it is the only answer.

Who it is for

Soft tailoring works best on people who wear a jacket often and want it to feel like clothing rather than equipment. In heat it is the better jacket, because there is less between you and the air. It suits a slightly fuller frame better than a very structured jacket does, because there is no shoulder line to argue with your own.

It is less good as your only jacket. An unstructured navy will not carry a black tie event or a courtroom, and pretending otherwise is how people end up underdressed at something that mattered.

How to wear it

Treat it as the jacket you reach for rather than the one you put on. It goes over a polo or a t-shirt without looking like you got half changed, which a structured jacket rarely manages. If you are buying one as a second or third jacket, that is exactly the gap it fills.

Every THEODORE garment is cut to your own measurements. Book an appointment at the studio, at a touring fitting, or over video.